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On the eastern side Siberia – 4 days train travel from Moscow – can be found Lake Baikal – the ‘jewel of Siberia’. On the this spectacular lake sits the charming Siberian village of Listvyanka, with the Trans-Siberian town of Irkutsk linking eastern Siberia to the the rest of Russia and onwards to Mongolia. Here is my guide to spending 72 hours in this special part of the world.

• Lake Baikal
• Listvyanka Village
• Siberian Wooden Houses
• Baikal Observatory + View Point
• St. Nicholas Church
• Retro Park
• Banya (Russian Sauna)
• Listvyanka Market and Museum
• Siberian Food
• Irkutsk
• When to Go + How to Go

Lake Baikal

This is what you came for – the clear blue of Lake Baikal. The UNESCO world heritage sight is the worlds largest freshwater lake (more than all the North American Lakes combined!), the worlds deepest lake (1.642 miles at its deepest), and the worlds oldest lake (around 25-30 million years old).

Impressive facts aside – it is stunningly beautiful with crystal clear blue water, surround by forested land in which sits the village of Listvyanka. The best way to see the lake is to simply walk along its endless shoreline and take to the hills for panoramic views.

For the hearty souls, a dip in Lake Baikal’s pure – if very cold! – water is a must. For the avoidance of doubt, my ‘dip’ involved running in and out of water for all of 3-5 minutes, watched by bemused smoking Russian ladies looking pretty snug in their coats! Even by September the lakes waters are very cold and should not be underestimated, but its a fantastic experience ideally followed by a banya!

Disclaimer – if you want to do some actual swimming you should take advice from those who know the lake, swim in designated areas, be suitably prepared / kitted out, and consider your own health limits. Happy swimming!

Listvyanka Village

Listvyanka is charming village on Lake Baikal, with a stunning shoreline and a handful of valley roads nestled in the surrounding forest. It is small and walkable, making it great base to see the area and the lake. While you can visit for a day from Irkutsk, I would recommend staying 1-2 nights (which you will appreciate after days on the Trans-Siberian train!). It has is haven for nature and traditional Siberian wooden architecture, so just talking your time to walk long the shoreline and dip in and out of the valley roads is a great way to see the village and its sights.

Siberian Wooden Houses

Everywhere you go in Listvyanka you can find the traditional wooden houses of Siberia. Often colourful with ornately carved window frames and shutters, they are charming and beautiful. The best way to see them is to wander around the valley roads of the village, where most can be found.

Baikal Observatory + View point

The Baikal Astrophysical Observatory sits in the forested hills on the eastern edge of the village and has spectacular views Lake Baikal. It is around a 30-40 minute walk from the shore – winding up Partizanskaya Ulitsa road which leads to a beautiful forest path up to the observatory. Ensure to go during opening times so you have access to the sight. Tours of facility can also be arranged, including a clime to the top of the observatory (see this stunning winter view!), but the forest walk and views of the lake are worth the trip alone.

St. Nicholas Church

St. Nicholas Church is a mid-19th-century timber church, built by a merchant who believed St Nicholas saved him and his sailors from shipwreck. It is a beautiful and well maintained example of Siberian architecture. Make sure to explore the grounds and take time to look at the lovely design detail.

Retro Park

Just down the street form St. Nicholas Church is Retro Park, a quirky family run museum packed with metal sculptures, old soviet cars, paintings and vintage soviet items. It is ran by the Osipov family, whose father is a painter and son is a scrap metal sculptor. You can spend hours here admiring the art and soviet cars for only a 100 rubles (£1/$1.40)!

Banya (Russian Sauna)

You can’t visit Siberia without banya (a Russian sauna). Many of the banya’s in Listvyanka are private in the guest houses/hotels, so make sure to check that your accommodation has a banya before booking. The best come complete with brush (to hit yourself with!), felt hats (they look great!), and fruit tea in the cooler pre-bath room.

Baikal Market + Museum

The market – Baykal’skiy Rynok – is a must see in Listvyanka. Naturally, fresh and smoked fish is a big seller, but it also has lots of other food and souvenirs galore. Great to just wander around, soak up the atmosphere and pick up a souvenir.

On the western edge of Listvyanka is the eclectic Baikal Museum. This small but jam packed museum covers the history of Baikal Lake and Siberian nature, including a small aquarium complete with cute chubby seals. Don’t miss the Baikal ‘yellow submarine’ experience!

Food

Unsurprisingly fish is the main meal here – fresh grilled fish of many varieties can be found in virtually all cafes, restaurants and guest house/hotels, typically served with potatoes and salad/pickles. It is fresh, simple and delicious. There are variety of other Siberian dishes available, my favourite is the noodle soup with vegetables (sometimes comes with a little meat). Wherever you are in Russia, Russian honey cake (Medovik) is not to be missed. The multiple layered cake, made with condensed milk or sour cream, is gorgeously sweet and delicious!

Irkutsk

Irkutsk sits on the Trans-Siberian line, connecting the region to the rest of Russia and Mongolia, but Irkutsk is much more than an railway town. An historical town with a history of exile, it became a centre of Siberian cultural and intellectual life with many museums, galleries, historical buildings and universities.

There are many small and large galleries in Irkutsk, but Gallery of V. Bronshteyn is unmissable (Instagram). The largest gallery in Siberia, it hosts a large collection of unique art work by Siberian artists (paintings and sculptures), as well as some international works. My visit included a stunning personal exhibition from local artist and teacher Lyubov Bertakova (paintings above).

While I wasn’t able to visit (note, it is closed on Mondays!) the Irkutsk Decembrists Museum – also known as the House Museum Prince SG Volkonsky – is close by and a must visit for history buffs. It explores the life of Decembrist Revolters who were exiled to Siberia from the the 1820s and heavily influenced Siberian cultural and economic life. If you are in the area on a sunny day, the ‘singing fountain‘ is just down the road – a nice square with water display (though, to avoid disappointment, it doesn’t actually sing!)

Next, explore the pleasant area along the Angara River. Start at the the Gate of the City and walk along to see the Sobor Bogoyavlensky cathedral, ensuring to stop at the Cossack statue opposite. Right by the cathedral, is the Memorial Park where you can see the Eternal Flame dictated to those who lost their lives in World War II (pictured below) and the Church of the Saviour to the Holy Face.

If you have time in Irkutsk before you train – or are staying in town – there are numerous other galleries and museums to enjoy, along with some beautiful Siberian architecture found among the more modern buildings.

When to Go + How to Go

I found September to be a great time of year to visit both Siberia and other destinations on the Trans-Siberian route. The weather in Siberia is pleasant but not too hot, though you will likely have some rain (in early September, I had 1 rain day and 2 dry sunny days). Along the Trans-Siberian route: St. Petersburg and Moscow had perfect weather (sunny, dry and warm), Mongolia is sunny and pleasant if a little cooler in the evenings, while Beijing has the summer warmth but less humid.

You can also do the Trans-Siberian in winter, which is definitely on my future travel list! It is obviously very cold across Russia, Mongolia and China but offers a different experience and sights. Think sleigh rides in Mongolia and trips across the frozen Lake Baikal (see this Google Maps 360 photo for a stunning lake view from the observatory!) A example tour is the Flying Frosty from Vodka Train.

My top tip would be to ensure you cash with you – it’s much cheaper than the St. Petersburg or Moscow, but don’t assume access to a cash point/ATM in Listvyanka or that you will be able to pay on card.

Getting There

You can fly into Irkutsk airport via internal Russian flight, but the majority visit on the epic Trans-Siberian railway journey though Russia, Mongolia and China (see my guides for other Trans-Siberian stops). If you want to make the Trans-Siberian journey independently, there is no better guide to train travel than the Man in Seat 61. You can also get the Trans-Siberian Handbook – the ‘bible’ – which details every stop and how to plan the trip.

There are many companies offering the Trans-Siberian tours, some of which are very expensive! On the ‘cheaper’ end is the excellent Vodka Train (for 18-35 yo’s) with their 3 week Vodka Train eastbound tour from St. Petersburg for around £2,400/Aus$4580/US$3325, or a cheaper 2 week Budgeting Bolshevik westbound tour from Moscow for around £1450/Aus$2775/US$2015 (both include accommodation and local guides for all destinations, but exclude visas and flights). For an independent journey, the Man in Seat 61 estimates Moscow to Beijing trains cost between £500-750, excluding visas, accommodation, guides and flights.

While I rarely book travel tours – I can always do it for much cheaper! – I personally found the Vodka Train tour to be excellent experience and around 50% more expensive than an independent trip (as of 2017, when taking account of accommodation and guide costs). Having local guides at each destination was a real asset – they really knew the areas and spoke the local language, and tailored the time to what ever you wanted to do, as well as providing free time. The companies assistance with the paperwork for the 3 visas is also very helpful (e.g. providing ‘letters of invitation for Russia).

Which ever way you make this journey, plan well ahead – you want 2-3 months to sort your visas alone! I would recommend talking at minimum 3 weeks – 3.5 weeks if including St. Petersburg – to really enjoy the destinations. It really is a once in a lifetime trip.

What would you like to see the most? What’s your recommendations? Let me know in the comments!

All pictures are my own and full rights reserved.