48 Hours in Salvador, Brazil
Salvador was like no where else I visited in Brazil. Full of Afro-Brazil culture, beautiful colonial architecture, and a fantastic energy – it should not be missed off your Brazil itinerary. Here’s my recommendations for 48 hours in Salvador…
- Pelourinho
- Elevador Lacerda + the Lower City
- Samba
- Beaches + Island Trip
- Food + Drink
- Stay
- Getting There
- Safety
Unless otherwise stated, all pictures are my own with full rights reserved.
Pelourinho
Does it feel touristy? Yes. But there is a good reason why so many tourists visit here. The historic UNESCO neighbourhood is full of colourful colonial architecture, cobbled streets, and elaborately decorated churches. There are activities day and night and so is an excellent base for your Salvador stay (see accommodation section below).
I would recommend spending your first morning on the tip-based Free Walking Tour, a company which I have used in a number of countries, to familiarise yourself with the area (there are also plenty of paid tours available). Highlights include the Church and Convent of São Francisco, Salvador (Igreja e Convento de São Francisco) – impressively decorated and including a Portuguese style courtyard adorned with the classic blue and white tiles. Don’t miss the stunning facade of the Church of the Third Order of Saint Francis (Igreja da Ordem Terceira Secular de São Francisco), just next door.
Elevador Lacerda + the Lower City
The Elevador Lacerda is the iconic elevator which links the ‘Upper City’ area of Pelourinho and the ‘Lower City’ area of Comercio, where you can see the Mercado Modelo market and the bay area. The elevator is incredibly cheap to take (0.15 real = £0.02 / $0.03), but do remember to take in the views from the top of the elevator before you descend.
View of harbour from Upper City (Unsplash)
Beyond the immediate area of Mercado Modelo market, is the Comercio district. The area is partially abandon due to many business moving to the new business district. Remaining is a mix of financial and local businesses and sadly abandoned historical buildings, along with some beautiful street art.
I took a tour of the area with the excellent Rebel Salvador whose aim was to show ‘the B-side’ of the historic district not often seen by tourists. The tour is sadly no longer running, but I would recommend checking for an alternative tour of the Lower City before your visit. Alternatively there is a self guided tour available from GPS My City.
Samba
The evenings in Salvador are incredible. Locals and tourist alike party in the bars and clubs that spillover onto Pelourinho’s cobbled streets. I would recommend Bar O Cravinho, but do go for a wander – drum groups and other musical performances often spring up on the main squares and streets. January is an excellent time to visit as carnival groups hold public rehearsals. Check the local listings when you visit – particularly for the Pelourinho and Rio Vermelho areas – and get ready to dance!
Beaches + Island Trip
As with rest of Brazil, the Bahia region knows how to do a great beach. In the city the Priai do Porto de Barra has a lovely promenade, is great for swimming, and a short distance to the famous Barra lighthouse. If you have the time, take a day trip to Salvador’s islands and further afield beaches, including the numbered beaches of Morro de São Paulo and Praia do Forte, with its own turtle Sanctuary.
Food + Drink
You cannot visit Salvador without having the moqueca – a fish stew with a coconut milk and tomato base. It’s available all over Salvador, but highly recommend enjoying at a beach side restaurant.
Drinks wise the Caipirinha cocktail is delicious and pretty much mandatory drink across Brazil. Comprising of fresh lime juice, sugar and cachaça spirit, it is strong and refreshing. Brazil also has really decent local beers (except for Skol, which is awful!).
Stay
Budget
For a budget stay, look no further than Hostel Galeria 13. In heart of the Pelourinho, it’s perfect base for exploring the area and hitting the samba parties in the evening. They have a charming garden where you can enjoy their free breakfast, free Caipirinha happy hour, and a dip in their small pool. The staff are very helpful and friendly (even providing me with a nutella-based birthday breakfast treat!),
BOOK HERE: Galeria 13
Hotel
If you are looking for something more mid-range, there is the charming, boutique Hotel Villa Bahia (as know as ‘Hotel Villa Bahia’). Set in colonial house with a lovely courtyard and swimming pool.
BOOK HERE: Hotel Villa Bahia
A more high end stay can be had at the Art-deco Fera Palace hotel. An excellent location in the Lower City, it boasts of rooftop lounge and swimming pool with fantastic views over the ocean.
BOOK HERE: Fera Palace Hotel
Getting There
After buying a unbelievably cheap return flight to Rio, it occurred to us that Brazil is rather large! Thankfully there are a number of budget airlines operating in Brazil, including LATAM Brasil, Azul and Gol. You will easily find a flight from which ever Brazilian city you are flying from, as ever, use Skyscanner to find the best flight prices.
Safety
Something that struck us on arrival in Salvador was that locals would – with with very warm concern – inform tourists they should to stay within the Pelourinho area for safety.
Safety is subject that is queried for Salvador and wider Brazil. As with all my travels in Brazil, I would recommend asking your hostel/hotel and locals for the latest advice. They can inform you of the ‘good’ and ‘bad’ neighbourhoods – that is, which are/are not considered safe for tourists – and at what time of day. In Rio we found that some neighbourhoods were party central at night, but not great in the day time (as attested to by our poor (mugged) dorm mate, who mixed up his timings).
Even in a couple of years, cities can change significantly, so it’s always best to have the latest advice from the locals who know. That way you can stay safe but have the right information, so you’re not being overly cautious and missing out of seeing some great parts of the city. As ever, take all the normal precautions – avoid flashing expensive items, watch against pickpocketers (especially in touristy areas), and take taxi’s between neighbourhoods. Most importantly – trust your instincts!
Where would you like to visit? What’s your recommendations for Salvador? Let me know in the comments!
